Bai Tu Long Bay is the quieter half of the Ha Long seascape, and the best reason to go is to get away from the crowded day routes. Base yourself in Van Don for a day cruise among the karsts, then cross by fast boat to Quan Lan or Co To for beaches you cannot reach on a Ha Long cruise. Allow for the sea: storms and winter winds stop the boats.
How we built this guide: on 19 October 2026 we read reports on Quang Ninh's Bai Tu Long boat routes, its 2025 fee resolution and the Ha Long Bay management board's fee and route pages, government reports on the national park and Conde Nast Traveller's 2026 list, Vietnam's tourism board on Co To, 2025 and 2026 ferry fare reports, Sun Group's travel guides for Van Don and the islands, a 2025 storm report and bus listings on 12Go. We did not visit for this update.
How is Bai Tu Long different from Ha Long Bay?
It is the same kind of limestone seascape with far fewer boats, plus inhabited islands with beaches. Vietnamese Wikipedia places the bay in the sea area of Van Don, bordering Co To to the east and Cam Pha and Cai Bau island to the west, with hundreds of islands including the inhabited Quan Lan, Minh Chau and Ngoc Vung.
Crowds are the big difference. Ha Long Bay receives more than 4 million visitors a year, according to Thoi bao Tai chinh Viet Nam. In March 2026, Conde Nast Traveller ranked Bai Tu Long third in its seven wonders of Southeast Asia for 2026, as a more tranquil, less crowded alternative, and suggested small boats over large cruises, per Vietnam Government News.
Much of the area is protected. Bai Tu Long National Park, adjacent to the Ha Long Bay World Heritage site, covers 15,783 ha, of which 9,658 ha is sea, and received the ASEAN Heritage Park title on 19 May 2017, per Vietnam Government News.
Which boat routes go into Bai Tu Long Bay?
Two sets: the province's own BTL routes from Ao Tien port in Van Don, and Ha Long cruises that sail toward Vung Vieng. Quang Ninh approved the routes in Decision 2119/QD-UBND of 19 July 2024 and launched the Bai Tu Long ones on 29 March 2025, Thoi bao Tai chinh Viet Nam reported.
| Route | Starts at | Stops |
|---|---|---|
| BTL1 | Ao Tien port | Tay Hoi island, Lucky Cat rock, Ban Sen island, Nha Tro cave |
| BTL2 | Ao Tien port | Phat Co cave, pearl farm at Da Den islet, Lao Vong fishing village, Dua islet, Minh Chau island |
| BTL3 | Ao Tien port | Lao Vong fishing village, Tra Ngo Lon island, Thien Nga islet |
| BTL4 | Ao Tien port | Cai De area, Mang Ha overnight mooring point |
| BTL5 | Ao Tien port | Tra Than cove, Cai Lim beach, Mang Ha mooring point, Cai De area |
| VHL-BTL1 and VHL-BTL2 | Ha Long, linking to Van Don | Thang Loi, Ngoc Vung, Quan Lan and Minh Chau islands; or Ban Sen island and Nha Tro cave |
| Ha Long route 4 | Ha Long International Cruise Port | Thay and Cap La caves, Vung Vieng, Cong Do island |
Route 4's stops come from the Ha Long Bay management board. "Bai Tu Long" cruises sold in Ha Long usually mean this side of the bay; one operator places Vung Vieng in the heart of Bai Tu Long Bay (Indochina Junk).
From Ao Tien, Everland Group's Crystal Holidays Cruise runs daily on three itineraries matching the BTL stops; Tien Phong reported in June 2026, from the operator's own statements, that a 5-hour trip with meals cost just over 1 million VND.
What does Bai Tu Long cost in fees under Quang Ninh's rules?
It depends on where your boat starts. Quang Ninh lists its route fees under the heading "Ha Long Bay, Bai Tu Long" in Resolution 51/2025. For cruises from Ha Long on route 4, the management board lists 200,000 VND per person for a day, 500,000 VND with one night and 650,000 VND with two.
For the BTL routes from Ao Tien, VOV reported in March 2025 that the province had not yet started collecting a sightseeing ticket, and we found no published fee for them by 19 October 2026. Ask your operator what the price includes. Sun Group's travel site says tickets at Ao Tien exclude a port fee of about 30,000 to 50,000 VND per passenger per trip (Sun Paradise Land).
How do you choose between Ha Long, Lan Ha and Bai Tu Long?
Choose by what you want besides the karsts: famous caves, island hiking, or fewer boats and beaches.
| Area | Leaves from | What it is like | Day fee per adult | Choose it if |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ha Long Bay | Tuan Chau or Ha Long International Cruise Port | Most famous caves, most cruise choice, busiest water | 200,000 to 250,000 VND on routes VHL1 to VHL5 (management board) | It is your first time and you want the classic sights |
| Lan Ha Bay | Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong | Lagoons, beaches, national park hiking | 120,000 VND from 1 January 2026 (Bao Hai Phong) | You want an island base with walks on land |
| Bai Tu Long Bay | Ao Tien port, Van Don | Fewer boats, national park islands, beach islands | No published fee found for the BTL routes | You want fewer boats, or to stay on Quan Lan or Co To |
Our Ha Long Bay guide covers cruise routes and prices, and our Cat Ba and Lan Ha Bay guide covers the kayaking suspension and the national park.
What is Van Don, and how do you get there?
Van Don is the island gateway, with the airport and Ao Tien port. Since mid-2025 it has been one of Quang Ninh's two special zones, with Co To, rather than a district, under Resolution 1679/NQ-UBTVQH15, per Thoi bao Tai chinh Viet Nam.
Ao Tien port covers nearly 30 ha with six berths, about 7 km from Van Don airport and 10 km from Cai Rong town, per Sun Paradise Land. The same guide puts the drive from Hanoi at about 3 to 3.5 hours on the expressways through Hai Phong and Ha Long, and from Ha Long or Bai Chay at about 1.5 to 2 hours.
- By bus from Hanoi: 12Go listed 77 bus and limousine departures for Friday 30 October 2026, from about 351,000 VND and taking 3 to 4 hours. Son Hai Limousine, for example, left at 07:30, 11:00 and 12:30 and took 4 hours for 477,750 VND. A taxi from Cai Rong to the port takes about 15 to 20 minutes, per Sun Group.
- By air: Van Don airport is 49.8 km by road from Ha Long's Bai Chay Bridge, and we could not confirm a public bus from it in our airport transfer report.
- Via Ha Long: for shuttles, vans and buses to the Ha Long ports, see Hanoi to Ha Long Bay and Starting from Hanoi.
Is Quan Lan worth a night?
Yes, if you want quiet beaches and a village with history, about 45 to 60 minutes by fast boat from Van Don. Boats leave from Ao Tien or Cai Rong; Sun Group's October 2026 guide puts Ao Tien to Quan Lan at about 60 minutes and to neighboring Minh Chau at about 45, at about 400,000 VND return to Quan Lan plus a port fee of about 50,000 VND (Sun Paradise Land). Its September 2026 port guide gives 160,000 to 180,000 VND one way on regular boats and up to about 300,000 VND on two-hull boats.
- Beaches. Sun Group's December 2025 guide describes Quan Lan beach as clear and quiet, Minh Chau as white sand with gentle waves suited to young children, and Son Hao as a long shore backed by casuarina trees (Sun Paradise Land).
- Quan Lan communal house. It honors Le Anh Tong and Tran Khanh Du and has been a national relic since 1990, per Sun Group's October 2026 guide. The island's festival falls in the sixth lunar month.
- Getting around. Motorbikes rent for about 200,000 VND a day for manual bikes and 250,000 VND for scooters, per the October 2026 guide; electric carts suit families.
Sun Group calls April to September the peak season and advises booking one to two months ahead for peak dates.
Is Co To worth the longer crossing?
Yes, for the most open, beach-focused stay in the area. Vietnam's tourism board describes Co To as an archipelago of about 40 to 50 islands about 80 km from the mainland on one page (vietnam.travel), and as about 60 km offshore with over 50 islands on another (vietnam.travel), with a 60-minute boat ride from Ao Tien.
Ferries to Co To: times, fares and operators
Fast boats from Ao Tien take about 60 minutes, and slower ones up to about 90. Sun Group's September 2026 port guide lists Havaco (Tuan Chau Express), Ka Long, Quang Minh, Manh Quang, Nguyen Viet and Hoang Quan on the route, with common departure times between 06:00 and 15:00 and extra sailings from about May to August. It gives one-way fares of 300,000 to 330,000 VND on two-hull boats and 250,000 to 300,000 VND on single-hull boats, before the port fee (Sun Paradise Land). Fares on most two-hull boats rose to 300,000 VND from 250,000 in April 2025, Thoi bao Tai chinh Viet Nam reported. Times change by company and day, so confirm the day before.
Beaches and sights on Co To
- Hong Van is the calmest of the main beaches, and on Van Chay, on the north side, waves can reach 2 to 3 m, per vietnam.travel, which also names Tinh Yeu (Tau Dam) and Co To Con.
- Mong Rong rocky beach is one of the island's best places for both sunrise and sunset, according to the tourism board.
- Co To lighthouse, built in the late 19th century, stands about 100 m above sea level, with 72 steps you may be allowed to climb with shoes off.
The tourism board asks visitors not to bring plastic bottles or bags. It calls summer and autumn the best time, peaking in September and October, with April and May also good.
What happens when the sea turns rough?
Boats stop, and you wait. Ahead of Typhoon No. 3 in July 2025, authorities moved 8,850 visitors from Co To to the mainland before gusts of level 9 to 10 hit both Co To and Van Don, Dai bieu Nhan dan reported. Sun Group's December 2025 Co To guide warns that strong winds and big waves from November to February can delay or change ferry schedules, and advises checking the forecast three to five days ahead (Sun Paradise Land).
- Leave a spare day between an island stay and any flight.
- Book rooms and boats with flexible terms for weather.
- On any boat, wear the life jacket. Our Ha Long Bay guide covers the July 2025 capsizing near Ha Long and the province's storm suspensions.
Where should you stay?
Pick your base by what you will do: Van Don for cruises, an island for beaches.
| Base | Best for | Prices we saw | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Van Don (Cai Rong town, near Ao Tien) | Day cruises, early boats, the airport | Not compared | The islands are a boat ride away |
| Quan Lan | Quiet beaches, village life, cycling | Resorts and budget homestays; no prices in our sources | Boat-dependent; busiest April to September |
| Co To | Long beaches, sunrise and sunset viewpoints | Homestays about 400,000 to 600,000 VND; 3-star hotels 800,000 to 1,200,000; resorts near Hong Van 1.5 to 2.5 million per night | Longest crossing; ferries stop in storms |
| Overnight cruise from Ha Long | Bai Tu Long scenery without changing hotels | Route 4 fee 500,000 to 650,000 VND with overnight stays | Starts from Ha Long, not Van Don |
Co To prices are from Sun Group's December 2025 guide (Sun Paradise Land); treat them as typical ranges.
How many days should you give Bai Tu Long?
One day for a cruise, three to five for the islands. A 5-hour cruise from Ao Tien fits into a day based in Van Don. Quan Lan works as one or two nights. Co To needs two nights: Sun Group's sample itinerary sails out at about 12:30 to 13:00 and returns after lunch on the third day. Doing the bay, Quan Lan and Co To together takes four to five days, plus spare time for weather.
How much does a Bai Tu Long trip cost?
Boats and lodging are the main costs. We converted at Vietcombank's published USD selling rate of 26,080 VND on 19 October 2026.
| Item | Price in VND | About in USD | Where we saw it |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bus Hanoi to Van Don | from about 351,000 | from $13 | 12Go, 30 Oct 2026 |
| 5-hour cruise from Ao Tien, with meals | just over 1,000,000 | about $38 or more | Tien Phong, Jun 2026 |
| Ha Long route 4 fee, day | 200,000 | $7.70 | Management board, 2025 |
| Fast boat to Quan Lan, one way | 160,000 to 300,000 | $6.10 to $11.50 | Sun Paradise Land, Sep 2026 |
| Fast boat to Co To, one way | 250,000 to 330,000 | $9.60 to $12.70 | Sun Paradise Land, Sep 2026 |
| Port fee at Ao Tien, per trip | 30,000 to 50,000 | $1.20 to $1.90 | Sun Paradise Land, Sep 2026 |
| Homestay on Co To, per night | 400,000 to 600,000 | $15 to $23 | Sun Paradise Land, Dec 2025 |
| Electric car on Co To, full day (8 to 10 seats) | 600,000 to 800,000 | $23 to $31 | Sun Paradise Land, Dec 2025 |
| Motorbike on Quan Lan, per day | 200,000 to 250,000 | $7.70 to $9.60 | Sun Paradise Land, Oct 2026 |
On Co To, ask the price per kilo before ordering seafood; Sun Group's guide quotes sun-dried squid at 350,000 to 400,000 VND per kg.
Key facts at a glance
- BTL routes: five from Ao Tien port, set by Decision 2119/QD-UBND of 19 July 2024 and launched on 29 March 2025 (Thoi bao Tai chinh Viet Nam).
- National park: 15,783 ha, ASEAN Heritage Park title awarded on 19 May 2017 (Vietnam Government News).
- Ha Long route 4 fee: 200,000 VND for a day, 500,000 to 650,000 VND with overnight stays (management board).
- Co To boat: about 60 minutes from Ao Tien (vietnam.travel); two-hull fares 300,000 VND since April 2025 (Thoi bao Tai chinh Viet Nam).
- Storm evacuation: 8,850 visitors moved off Co To ahead of Typhoon No. 3 in July 2025 (Dai bieu Nhan dan).
Limitations
We found no official 2026 fee list for the BTL routes from Ao Tien, so the fee picture rests on a March 2025 report and the province's 2025 fee resolution; the province could start charging at any time. Ferry fares, departure times and island lodging prices come mostly from travel guides published by Sun Group, a resort developer with properties in the area, and they disagree slightly with each other. The cruise price is one operator's figure reported in the press. Bus prices are 12Go listings that include its fees. Sea conditions decide everything here: boats stop for storms from summer into autumn and can be delayed by winter winds. Before you go, confirm your boat's departure port and time, what the ticket includes, and the forecast for your crossing days.
